I love crochet bobble stitch, and the fact that it is surprisingly easy yet so effective at giving that little bit of texture to a “normal” piece of crochet. I’ve used this stitch in my newest design – a crochet bobble stitch cardigan – called the Honeycomb cardigan. This is an easy pattern that is perfect for people who want to try and make a garment.
This cardigan is made very simply with rectangles for each piece, only the sleeves have an increase, and this is simple too as it’s only on one row!
You can get the whole size inclusive pattern here on the blog for free – sizes XS through to 5XL, or you can purchase an advert free Instant PDF with added stitch charts and colour coded sizing for easy crochet.
I’ve even recorded a video for how to crochet the bobble stitch, showing it’s really easy to do.
If you want to save this for later please Pin in here.
Why the “Honeycomb” Crochet Bobble Stitch Cardigan?
I struggle with naming my crochet patterns. There are just so many names you could choose from! Girls names, plant names, shapes, dogs names….. you name it!
So with this design I looked at the repeating crochet bobble stitch pattern I’ve used.
When I used a similar pattern for the Grape and Bobbles cushion in Crochet Now magazine, the name was not really catchy!
So this time, armed with Google and a look in detail of the pattern, I suddenly released, if some of the rows of DC were removed, the bobbles would fit together just like Honeycomb in a bee hive.
For some other clothing patterns have a look at:
>>>Crochet Chunky Sweater – easy and quick pattern
>>>Beginners Crochet Cardigan pattern
>>>Easy Stripy Cardigan pattern
>>>Easy Kids Christmas Sweater
>>>Easy textured cardigan pattern
Yarn for a Bobble Stitch Cardigan.
I’ve made two of these cardigans using 2 different yarn types, both were chosen specifically to make this an affordable project for anyone to make.
Cygnet Pure Baby in Biscuit, a premium acrylic yarn, that is so so squishy, and an absolute joy to work with.
>>>Check out my blanket pattern with the same yarn here
It was the colour that swayed me on this yarn, the colour is just beautiful and the resulting cardigan so soft to wear.
Check out all the Cygnet Pure Baby colours >>>
The first cardigan I made, I used Stylecraft Special DK in Grey. This is a “standard” DK weight yarn, and a great everyday sweater (cardi) to wear.
Check out the 95 Stylecraft colours>>>
One thing to note – these are Double Knit yarn, 8ply, more common in the UK, as the “weight” of choice, but this will give you nice everyday wearable sweater, rather than having to wait until it’s below 5 degrees outside!
Other DK yarns you could use (Providing your tension/ gauge is correct)
Being a DK yarn, this makes the cardigan really wearable, not too hot, and not too cold, and also very cost effective to make!
Easy Crochet Bobble Stitch Cardigan Pattern
This bobble stitch cardigan is crocheted as 5 pieces. The back, 2 fronts, and 2 sleeves.
The back and the fronts are just rectangles, working backwards and forwards, turning your work at the end of each row.
The sleeves are made in the round, Slip Stitching to join, then turning – this way you don;t have to sew them up – as you’ve already done it as you were making them!
So if you can crochet a rectangle – you can make this cardigan.
I’d call this an advanced beginners or an improvers project, but just because there are a couple of stitches you need to know.
What crochet stitches do you need to know to make the cardigan.
Unsurprisingly, it being a bobble cardigan, you need to know the bobble stitch!
This is easier than it looks, and I have a handy video below showing how to bobble stitch.
Front Post and Back Post Double crochet (USA), and a normal Double crochet.
Sewing together, you can either crochet the pieces together with slip stitches, or use WIP stitch with a needle and the yarn.
Other Crochet cardigan patterns
>>>Easy Textured short Sleeved Crochet Cardigan
The Crochet Bobble Stitch
I’ve recorded a really quick video showing how to crochet the bobble stitch for the cardigan here (No waffle).
A couple of minutes, and you get to see 2 stitches being crocheted, so show you, that if you can crochet a US double crochet, you can make a bobble stitch!
The thing to note with this stitch is that the raised bobbles are on the wrong side……. which will be the right side for the cardigan!
Why buy the PDF Instant downloadable crochet pattern?
I’ll be honest here, the pattern is available for free here on the blog in all 9 sizes, but it’s long! There are multiple sizes, and the sizes have a different bobble repeats to be symmetrical.
If you want to invest in the Instant PDF download (Thank you), you can buy it from the well know places below.
The bonus of the getting the PDF, the sizes are all colour coded. I recommend printing it out and circling the size you are making throughout the pattern before starting, but it is also perfectly formatted for a tablet device too.
The PDF has chart diagrams of how the bobble stitches are placed which will help you are a more visual learner too.
Get the Ad free Instant Download on Etsy
Get the Ad free Instant Download Lovecrafts
Get the Ad free Instant Download Raverly
Honeycomb Cardigan
You will need
Cygnet Pure Baby DK, 100% acrylic Approx 245m (268yrds) /100g. For yarn quantities see table.
Or Stylecraft Special DK, 100% Acrylic Approx 298m/100g. If using this yarn, the number of balls can be reduced by 1 ball (XS-L), and 2 balls(XL-5XL) as the balls are larger.
A 4mm hook (US 6/H)
Abbreviations – USA Terms used
Ch – chain stitch
bbl – bobble stitch
BPDC – back post double crochet
DC – double crochet
FDC – foundation double crochet
FPDC – front post double crochet
pul – pull up loop
ss – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch (es)
yrh – yarn round hook
Bobble (bbl): [yrh, insert hook where indicated, yrh, pul, yrh, draw through 2 loops] 5 times into same st, yrh, draw through all 6 loops on hook.
Foundation Double Crochet (FDC): Ch3 (counts as first 1DC), yrh, insert hook in 3rd Ch from hook, [yrh, pul, yrh, draw through 1 loop on hook (Ch made), yrh, draw through 2 loops] twice (DC made)], insert hook in last Ch made; rep [ ] for number of sts required.
Tension
15 st and 10 rows of double crochet and bbl pattern to measure 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in) square with a 4mm hook.
Get the Ad free Instant Download on Etsy
Get the Ad free Instant Download Lovecrafts
Get the Ad free Instant Download Raverly
Pattern Notes
The cardigan is intended to be a generous fit with varying amounts of positive ease. Fronts, back and sleeves are worked from the bottom up. See Schematic for finished measurements (Included in Ad Free PDF).
All pieces except sleeves are worked in rows, turning at the end of each row.
The sleeves are worked in the round, slip stitch (ss) to join and turning at the end of each row.
The Ch3 at the beginning of the rows counts as a stitch throughout.
Rows 1-4 on each garment piece make the hem.
The repeating bobble pattern of the cardigan starts on Row 5.
On all garment pieces, the final st / 2sts are always DC (Not a bbl).
x donates that the instruction does not apply to that size.
Bobble (bbl) stitch is worked on the Wrong Side, but in the final garment this is the side of the cardigan that is on display.
Sizes are all colour coded on the Ad Free PDF. I recommend printing it out and circling the size you are making throughout the pattern before starting.
This pattern is written in 2 sizes – a cropped version (marked by *) and a longer version (marked by**) please check your row counts carefully. .
The length of the cardigan can be changed by reducing or increasing the number of rows on both fronts and the back, to make them the same.
NOTE: The cardigan in the photos (Cream) is a cropped (*) version of the cardigan, working only 53 rows per front and back for a XL size. This design measures 53cm and is 53 rows in length, and uses approximately 1-2 balls less yarn to make.
The longer version of the cardigan (Marked by **) is designed to fit just below the level of your bottom, see grey cardigan picture attached, for a cosy winter sweater.
As a guide, I am 5ft 3in, and I wear a UK 16/18, USA 14/16 and I made an XL size.
Size | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
Actual Bust (cm) | 91 | 101 | 112 | 123 | 133 | 144 | 155 | 165 | 176 |
Length (cm) (**Longer) | 62 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 68 | 70 | 70 |
Length (cm) (*Cropped) | 48 | 49 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 54 | 56 | 56 |
Actual Bust (inches) | 36 | 40 | 44 | 48 | 52 | 57 | 61 | 65 | 69 |
Length (inches) (**Longer) | 24 | 25 | 26 | 26 | 26 | 27 | 27 | 28 | 28 |
Length (inches) (*cropped) | 19 | 19 | 20 | 20 | 21 | 21 | 21 | 22 | 22 |
Yarn (balls) (**Longer – Pure baby) | 8 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 10 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 12 |
Yarn (balls) (*cropped – Pure baby) | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 10 |
Full Dimensions Included in the Advert Free PDF.
Back
(See Figure 1 for bbl st pattern of the back – note the bbl start on Row 5) – If you want this get the Ad free PDF Here).
Hem
Row 1: FDC 68 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132) working first FDC into 3rd Ch from hook, turn. 68 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132) sts.
Row 2 (RS): Ch3 (counts as DC throughout), FPDC, *BPDC, FPDC; rep from * to end. Turn. 68 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132) sts.
Row 3 (WS): Ch3, FPDC, *BPDC, FPDC; rep from * to end. Turn.
Row 4: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Start the body of the cardigan
Row 5: Ch3, 2DC, [bbl, 7DC] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) times. 1DC in the last st. Turn. 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) bbl sts.
Row 6: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 7: Ch3, 1DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) times. 2DC. Turn. 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32) bbl sts.
Row 8: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 9: As Row 5.
Rows 10-12: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 13: Ch3, 6DC , [bbl, 7DC] 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) times, bbl, 4DC. Turn. 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) bbl sts.
Row 14: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 15: Ch3, 5DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) times, bbl, 1DC, bbl 2DC. Turn. 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32) bbl sts.
Row 16: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 17: As row 13.
Row 18-20 : Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
*Cropped Cardigan Sizes XS, S, M, L,
Rep rows 5-20 once more, then rows 5-16 (17, 19, 20, x, x, x, x, x) once more.
*Cropped Cardigan Sizes XL 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL
Rep rows 5-20 twice more, then rows 5-x (x, x, x, 5, 6, 6, 8, 8) once more.
This will leave you with a final row count of 48 (49, 51, 52, 53, 54, 54, 56, 56) rows.
**Longer Cardigan Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL 2XL, 3XL
Rep rows 5-20 twice more, then rows 5-14 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 20, x, x) once more.
**Longer Cardigan Sizes, 4XL, 5XL
Rep rows 5-20 three more times , then rows 5-x (x, x, x, x, x, x, 6, 6) once more.
This will leave you with a final row count of 62 (64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 68, 70, 70) rows.
Left Front (for left handed crocheter this would be the Right Front).
(See Figure 2 for bbl st pattern of the left front – note the bbl start on Row 5 Included in PDF).
Hem
Row 1: FDC 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) working first FDC into 3rd Ch from hook, turn. 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) sts.
Row 2 (RS): Ch3 (counts as DC throughout), FPDC, *BPDC, FPDC; rep from * to end. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): Ch3, FPDC, *BPDC, FPDC; rep from * to end. Turn.
Row 4: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
For sizes XS, M, XL, 3XL, 5XL only
Row 5: Ch3, 2DC, [bbl, 7DC] 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) times, 1DC in the last st. Turn. 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) bbl sts.
Row 6: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 7: Ch3, 1DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) times. 2DC. Turn. 6 (x, 8, x, 10, x, 12, x, 14) bbl sts.
Row 8: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 9: As Row 5
Rows 10-12: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 13: Ch3, 6DC , [bbl, 7DC] 2 (x, 3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6) times, bbl, 4DC. Turn. 3(x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) bbl sts.
Row 14: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 15: Ch3, 5DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] 2 (x, 3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6) times, bbl, 1DC, bbl, 3DC. Turn. 6 (x, 8, x, 10, x, 12, x, 14) bbl sts.
Row 16: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 17: As Row 13.
Row 18-20 : Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Left Front sizes S, L, 2XL, 4XL
Row 5: Ch3, 2DC, [bbl, 7DC] x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) times, bbl 4DC. Turn. x (4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7, x) bbl sts.
Row 6: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 7: Ch3, 1DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) times, bbl 1DC, bbl, 3DC. Turn. x (8, x, 10, x, 12, x, 14, x) bbl sts.
Row 8: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 9: As Row 5.
Rows 10-12: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 13: Ch3, 6DC, [bbl, 7DC] x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) times. 1DC. Turn. x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) bbl sts.
Row 14: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 15: Ch3, 5DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) times, 2DC. Turn. x (6, x, 8, x, 10, x, 12, x) bbl sts.
Row 16: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 17: As Row 13.
Rows 18-20 : Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
*Cropped Cardigan Sizes XS, S, M, L,
Rep rows 5-20 once more, then rows 5-16 (17, 19, 20, x, x, x, x, x) once more.
*Cropped Cardigan Sizes XL 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL
Rep rows 5-20 twice more, then rows 5-x (x, x, x, 5, 6, 6, 8, 8) once more.
This will leave you with a final row count of 48 (49, 51, 52, 53, 54, 54, 56, 56) rows.
**Longer Cardigan Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL 2XL, 3XL
Rep rows 5-20 twice more, then rows 5-14 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 20, x, x) once more.
**Longer Cardigan Sizes, 4XL, 5XL
Rep rows 5-20 three more times , then rows 5-x (x, x, x, x, x, x, 6, 6) once more.
This will leave you with a final row count of 62 (64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 68, 70, 70) rows.
Right Fronts (for left handed crocheter this would be the Left Front).
(See Figure 3 for bbl st pattern of the back – note the bbl start on Row 5 Included in PDF)
Row 1: FDC 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) working first FDC into 3rd ch from hook, turn. 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) sts.
Row 2 (RS): Ch3 (counts as DC throughout), FPDC, *BPDC, FPDC; rep from * to end. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): Ch3, FPDC, *BPDC, FPDC; rep from * to end Turn.
Row 4: Ch3, DC in each st across. Turn.
For sizes XS, M, XL, 3XL, 5XL only
Row 5: Ch3, [7DC, bbl] 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) times. 3DC. Turn. 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) bbl sts.
Row 6: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 7: Ch3, 1DC [5DC, bbl, 1DC bbl] 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) times. 2DC. Turn. 6 (x, 8, x, 10, x, 12, x, 14) bbl sts.
Row 8: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 9: As Row 5.
Rows 10-12: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 13: Ch3, 3DC , [bbl, 7DC] 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) times. Turn. 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) bbl sts.
Row 14: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 15: Ch3, 2DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] 3 (x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x, 7) times. 1DC. Turn. 6 (x, 8, x, 10, x, 12, x, 14) bbl sts.
Row 16: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 17: As Row 13.
Row 18-20 : Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
For Sizes S, L, 2XL, 4 XL
Row 5: Ch3, [7DC, bbl] x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) times, 7DC. Turn. x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) bbl sts.
Row 6: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 7: Ch3, 6DC [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) times. 2DC. Turn. x (6, x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x) bbl sts.
Row 8: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 9: As Row 5.
Rows 10-12: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 13: Ch3, 3DC [bbl, 7DC] x (2, x, 3, x, 4, x, 5, x) times. bbl, 3DC. Turn. x (2, x, 3, x, 4, x, 5, x) bbl sts.
Row 14: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 15: Ch3, 2DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] x (3, x, 4, x, 5, x, 6, x) times. 1DC. Turn. x (6, x, 8, x, 10, x, 12, x) bbl sts.
Row 16: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
Row 17: As Row 13.
Rows 18-20: Ch3, 1DC in each st across. Turn.
*Cropped Cardigan Sizes XS, S, M, L
Rep rows 5-20 once more, then rows 5-16 (17, 19, 20, x, x, x, x, x) once more.
*Cropped Cardigan Sizes XL 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL
Rep rows 5-20 twice more, then rows 5-x (x, x, x, 5, 6, 6, 8, 8) once more.
This will leave you with a final row count of 48 (49, 51, 52, 53, 54, 54, 56, 56) rows.
**Longer Cardigan Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL 2XL, 3XL
Rep rows 5-20 twice more, then rows 5-14 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 20, x, x) once more.
**Longer Cardigan Sizes, 4XL, 5XL
Rep rows 5-20 three more times , then rows 5-x (x, x, x, x, x, x, 6, 6) once more.
This will leave you with a final row count of 62 (64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 68, 70, 70) rows.
Sleeves – make 2
(See Figure 4 for bbl st pattern of the sleeves – note the bbl start on Row 5 included in PDF)
Working in rounds, slip stitching (ss) and turning after every round.
Round 1: FDC 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43) working first FDC into 3rd Ch from hook, ss to join. Turn. 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43) sts.
Round 2: Ch3, *FPDC, BPDC; rep from * to end, ss to join. Turn.
Round 3: Ch3, *FPDC, BPDC; rep from * to end, ss to join. Turn.
Round 4: Ch3, 1DC in base of chain, 2DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn. 54 (58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86) sts.
Sizes XS, M, XL, 3XL, 5XL
Round 5: Ch3, 2DC, [bbl, 7DC] 6 (x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x, 10) times. 2DC, ss to join. Turn. 6 (x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x, 10) bbl sts.
Round 6: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 7: Ch3, 1DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] 6 (x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x, 10) times. 1DC in last stitch, ss to join. Turn. 12 (x, 14, x, 16, x, 18, x, 20) bbl sts.
Round 8: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 9: As Round 5.
Rounds 10-12: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 13: Ch3, 6DC, [bbl, 7DC] 6 (x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x, 10) times, 6DC, ss to join. Turn. 6 (x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x, 10) bbl sts.
Round 14: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 15: Ch3, 5DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] 6(x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x, 10) times, ss to join. Turn. 12 (x, 14, x, 16, x, 18, x, 20) bbl sts.
Round 16: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 17: As Round 13.
Rounds 18-20: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Sizes S, L, 2XL, 4 XL
Round 5: Ch3, 2DC, [bbl, 7DC] x (6, x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x) time, bbl, 6DC, ss to join. Turn. x (7, x, 8, x, 9, x, 10, x) bbl sts.
Round 6: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 7: Ch3, 1DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] x (6, x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x) times, bbl, 1DC, bbl, 4DC, ss to join. Turn. x (14, x, 16, x, 18, x, 20, x) bbl sts.
Round 8: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 9: As Round 5.
Rounds 10-12: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 13: Ch3, 6DC, [bbl, 7DC] x (6, x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x) times, bbl, 2DC, ss to join. Turn. x (7, x, 8, x, 9, x, 10, x) bbl sts.
Round 14: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 15: Ch3, 5DC, [bbl, 1DC, bbl, 5DC] x (6, x, 7, x, 8, x, 9, x) times, bbl, 1DC, bbl, 1DC, ss to join. Turn. x (14, x, 16, x, 18, x, 20, x) bbl sts.
Round 16: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
Round 17: As Round 13.
Rounds 18-20: Ch3, 1DC in each st across, ss to join. Turn.
ALL Sizes
Repeat appropriate size sleeve instructions for rounds 5-20 twice, then rows 5 – 10 (11, 11, 12,12, 13, 13, 14, 14) once more. Fasten off.
To give 42 (43, 43, 45, 45, 46, 46, 47, 47) rows per sleeve.
To make up the Bobble Stitch Cardigan
Place fronts on the back with the bbl facing inwards and each other. Join at shoulders, matching Fronts and Back stitch for stitch. Sew in Sleeves (Make sure bbl are facing out). Join underarm and sleeve seam and sew in sleeves. Fasten off weave in all ends. Turn right side out.
Front Ribbing.
With WS facing (bbl stitch facing out), join yarn at the bottom of the right front. Working evenly around the front opening.
Row 1: Ch3 *FPDC, BPDC; rep from * to end. Turn.
Row 2:Ch3 *FPDC, BPDC; rep from * to end.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Note – ensure you are doing the opposite stitch on Row 2, i.e. make a FPDC in a BPDC, and the BPDC in an FPDC.
There you have it – A Crochet Bobble Stitch Cardigan
Join me at Off The Hook For You to share your crochet!
Thanks for visiting – I’d love to stay connected with you so please sign up for my email list where a free PDF pattern is waiting for you (just so you can see what my PDF patterns are like).
Finished one of my crochet pattern makes? I’d love to see it and so would the world, so get sharing! You can find me in the following ways:
- Join my new Facebook group
- Share a picture on Instagram and tag me #offthehookforyou
- Share your projects on Ravelry
- Share your projects on LoveCrafts
Disclaimer
This post may contain affiliate links which I earn a small commission from if you choose to click and purchase anything from. You pay the same price, I get a very small amount for sending you their way. It helps me to make my crochet patterns free on the blog.